Guide to the PA0FRI "Turbo Mode" Modification for the Heathkit SB-200
Guide to the PA0FRI "Turbo Mode" Modification for the Heathkit SB-200
The "Turbo Mode" modification, popularized by PA0FRI, increases the Heathkit SB-200's output power from ~600 W to 850–950 W PEP by adding a secondary high-voltage transformer. This raises the unloaded anode voltage from ~2150 VDC to ~2950 VDC (loaded ~2250–2450 VDC).
⚠️ Critical Safety Warning
This modification pushes components beyond original design limits.
Voltage Stress: Insulation must be rated for >3000 VDC.
Tube Limits: 572B tubes are stressed at these voltages; ensure they are high-quality (e.g., Taylor/Cetron) and properly reactivated.
Arcing Risk: Increased risk of internal arcing; a "glitch" resistor and HV fuse are mandatory.
Lethal Voltage: The amplifier contains >3000 VDC when unloaded. Discharge capacitors before touching.
1. Required Components & Part Numbers
The core of this mod is a booster transformer wired in series with the original 800 VAC secondary.
Component Specification Purpose Mouser Part # DigiKey Part #
Booster Transformer 230 VAC Primary / 250–300 VAC Secondary @ 0.6–1.0 A Adds ~350–400 VAC to the HV doubler input. 546-185F250 (Hammond, 250V/0.6A) 237-185F250-ND
HV Capacitors (Upgrade) 8 × 220 µF / 450 V Snap-in Replaces original 6 caps; higher capacity needed for increased voltage/ripple. 598-221A450M2PH (CDE) 493-15715-ND (Nichicon)
HV Rectifier Diodes 10 × BY225 (1300 V / 3 A) or 1N5408 Replaces original string; higher voltage/current rating mandatory. 512-BY225 BY225-ND
Glitch Resistor 15 Ω / 10 W Wirewound Limits current during tube flashover; sacrifices itself to save tubes. 290-15-RC 15F10-ND
HV Fuse 2 A / 10 kV Ceramic Fast-blow protection in anode line. 504-50200 F10200-ND
Toggle Switch DPDT / 250 VAC / 10 A Selects "Normal" (Booster bypassed) vs. "Turbo" (Booster in series). 506-7201K34 CH109-ND
HV Wire 18–20 AWG Silicone/PTFE Rated for >5 kV. 566-300V-18 (Belden) AE1018-ND
Note: The Hammond 185F250 (250V secondary) is ideal. If using a 120V primary unit, wire it for 230V input if possible, or use the 250V secondary directly.
Hammond 185F250 power transformer
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2. Step-by-Step Installation Guide
Step 1: Prepare the High-Voltage Capacitor Bank
The increased voltage and ripple current require expanding the filter bank from 6 to 8 capacitors.
Remove the original 6 electrolytic capacitors from the HV PCB.
Install 8 modern 220 µF / 450 V capacitors.
Since space is limited, mount 4 on the original PCB (if modified) or a new terminal strip, and 4 below the chassis or on a custom bracket near the meter.
Wiring: Ensure the series/parallel arrangement maintains the voltage doubler topology. The total capacitance per leg of the doubler increases, reducing ripple.
Replace Bleeder Resistors: Install 82 kΩ / 3 W resistors across each of the 8 capacitors (replacing the original 30 kΩ/10 W units). This reduces heat dissipation significantly.
Step 2: Mount the Booster Transformer
Location: The ideal location is the space vacated by the original large electrolytic capacitors (under the meter/near the front panel).
Mounting: Secure the Hammond 185F250 transformer using insulated hardware. Ensure it does not short against the chassis or other components.
Primary Wiring: Connect the transformer's primary to the 120 VAC mains (parallel connection of the SB-200's main transformer primaries if running on 120V, or a dedicated tap).
Alternative: Some builders power the booster primary from the SB-200's 6.3V filament winding using a step-up configuration, but direct mains connection is more stable. The PA0FRI design suggests wiring it to the mains or a dedicated winding.
Recommended: Wire the booster primary in parallel with the main transformer primary (after the soft-start circuit) so it powers up simultaneously.
Step 3: Series Connection (The "Turbo" Circuit)
This step injects the booster voltage into the HV doubler.
Identify the 800 VAC Secondary: Locate the two wires from the main transformer's high-voltage secondary (typically Red and Red/Yellow or similar, feeding the doubler).
Break the Circuit: Cut one of the 800 VAC lines (e.g., the Red wire) going to the doubler input.
Install the Toggle Switch:
Connect the Cut End A (from transformer) to the Common terminal of the DPDT switch.
Connect Cut End B (to doubler) to Terminal 1 (Normal Position).
Connect the Booster Secondary wires to Terminal 2 (Turbo Position) in series.
Wiring Logic: In "Normal," the switch passes the 800 VAC directly. In "Turbo," the 800 VAC passes through the booster secondary (e.g., 800 V + 250 V = 1050 VAC input to the doubler).
Phasing is Critical: If the voltage drops when switching to Turbo, reverse the two wires connecting the booster secondary to the switch.
Step 4: Upgrade Rectifiers and Protection
The original diode string is insufficient for ~3000 VDC peaks.
Replace Diodes: Install a string of 10 × BY225 (or 1N5408) diodes in series.
Original design used 16 lower-rated diodes; 10 modern 1300V diodes provide a 13,000 V PIV rating, offering a huge safety margin.
Install Glitch Resistor & Fuse:
Insert the 15 Ω / 10 W resistor and 2 A HV fuse in series with the positive HV output (anode feed) before the plate choke.
Add a 4.7 nF / 3 kV ceramic capacitor from the junction of the fuse/resistor to ground for RF filtering.
Step 5: Final Adjustments & Testing
Input Network: The higher voltage may require slight retuning of the input network capacitors (especially on 10m/15m) to maintain low SWR.
PA0FRI recommends replacing fixed input capacitors with trimmers or adjusting values (e.g., 10m coil to 6 turns).
Bias Check: Measure the negative grid bias. It may need slight adjustment to maintain ~90–100 mA idle current due to the higher plate voltage.
Test Sequence:
No Tubes: Power up in "Normal" mode. Check doubler output (~2100 VDC). Switch to "Turbo." Verify voltage rises to ~2600–2700 VDC unloaded.
With Tubes: Insert tubes. Reactivate if necessary.
Load Test: Connect a dummy load. Key the amplifier.
Normal: ~1900 VDC loaded, ~600 W output.
Turbo: ~2250–2450 VDC loaded, 850–950 W output.
Monitor: Watch for arcing. If arcing occurs, clean the chassis, check tube quality, or reduce drive power.
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